Intrepid girls seaweed divers of India face dangers but persist : Goats and Soda : NPR

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Intrepid girls seaweed divers of India face dangers but persist : Goats and Soda : NPR



Thangamma, about 80 years outdated, gathers seaweed off Pananthoppu seashore, Pamban island, Tamil Nadu, India. Seaweed extracts are utilized in a booming world meals business. An estimated 5,000 girls collect seaweed within the shallow reefs round Pamban island, which they promote to native factories.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR


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Thangamma, about 80 years outdated, gathers seaweed off Pananthoppu seashore, Pamban island, Tamil Nadu, India. Seaweed extracts are utilized in a booming world meals business. An estimated 5,000 girls collect seaweed within the shallow reefs round Pamban island, which they promote to native factories.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

Early on a heat February morning, a gaggle of ten girls, ranging in age from 50 to 60, sit on the sandy shores of Akkal Madam seashore on India’s Pamban Island, rigorously bandaging their fingers. Wearing colourful blouses and saris, they wind thick strips of fabric over every digit and safe the ends with string. It takes them over 20 minutes.

The bandages, they’ve discovered, are the easiest way to guard arms from sharp rocks on the seabed once they go underwater to dive for seaweed, which they promote to a neighborhood manufacturing unit.

“This is how we prepare,” says Bhagavathy. “We’ve tried gloves earlier than, however they at all times slip away within the sturdy currents. And accidents are so frequent when your fingers are uncovered.”


Bhagavathy exhibits the seaweed she collected. The divers maintain their breath for two to three minutes whereas extracting seaweed from underwater rocks.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR


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Bhagavathy exhibits the seaweed she collected. The divers maintain their breath for two to three minutes whereas extracting seaweed from underwater rocks.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

Bhagavathy is aware of what she’s speaking about. Now in her mid-60s, she has been amassing seaweed since she was 7.

(Like the opposite seaweed divers interviewed for this story, she prefers to be referred to by her first identify solely, as is the customized in these elements).

To maintain the rocks from tearing at their ft, the ladies put on rubber slippers. They strap on goggles since they’re going to be underwater with frequent dives every lasting as much as 2-3 minutes over a 5-6 hour day. They’re mastered the artwork of holding their breath throughout these dives.


Thangamma, about 80 years outdated, dives in to assemble seaweed.

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Thangamma, about 80 years outdated, dives in to assemble seaweed.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

“It’s not for the faint-hearted. That’s why you will not see any males right here,” Bhagavathy jokes. The different girls giggle as they wade into the nice and cozy waters.

But trendy instances and trendy issues have made it tougher to reach this old school occupation. A rising variety of marine warmth waves are inflicting a dropoff within the varieties of seaweed they collect. What’s extra, the federal government now prohibits seaweed extraction in some areas to advertise ocean well being.

These girls additionally face challenges on the homefront. Alcoholism amongst husbands and different male relations is a major problem.


As Thangamma and Bhagavathy eat the meal they packed earlier than leaving house within the early morning hours, extra girls arrive at Pananthoppu seashore to dive for seaweed.

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Nonetheless, an estimated 5,000 girls from the area persist, decided to proceed diving for seaweed.

“It’s our most important supply of livelihood,” says Munniammal, who’s in her mid-50s. “Our grandmothers and great-grandmothers have accompanied their husbands on fishing expeditions to gather seaweed so far as we are able to bear in mind. It’s a practice as a lot as it’s our livelihood.”

Pamban, the place the ladies collected seaweed that February morning, is a teardrop-shaped island recognized for its wealthy marine ecosystem. With over 4,000 species of vegetation and animals, it is thought-about by UNESCO to be one of many world’s most bio-diverse hotspots.


Boats off the seashore at Chinnapalam village, Pamban island, Tamil Nadu, India.

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The island is positioned between peninsular India and Sri Lanka, related to the Southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu through a rail and highway bridge that stretches over a mile and a half throughout the waters of the huge Indian Ocean. Eucalyptus, coconut and palm bushes abound, and picket fishing boats bob on turquoise waters so far as the attention can see.

There are not any fishing boats on this specific seashore, nonetheless; Akkal Madam is a abandoned strip of baked sands at 8 a.m. when the ladies arrive after a 3-mile auto taxi trip from their village of Chinnapalam. A wild wind whips by means of their hair, and the daylight is blinding.


Bhagavathy (left) and Thangamma (proper) prepare to assemble seaweed. “It’s not for the faint-hearted. That’s why you will not see any males right here,” Bhagavathy jokes.

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Bhagavathy (left) and Thangamma (proper) prepare to assemble seaweed. “It’s not for the faint-hearted. That’s why you will not see any males right here,” Bhagavathy jokes.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

The girls who’ve gathered to gather seaweed within the shallow reefs tie white gunny sacks round their hips and plunge into the waters. They pluck at sprigs of springy seaweed, liberating them from the sharp rocks they develop on. They floor briefly and with one deft flick of the wrist throw the sprigs into the sacks tied to their waists. With hardly a backward look they plunge into the waters once more. From 8 a.m. till 3 p.m. they’re primarily underwater.

Most of them put on shirts or t-shirts over their saris so their moist garments do not cling to them; the extra layer provides heat. The strips of sari material thrown over the left shoulder streams behind like brightly coloured flags because the divers slice by means of the waves. The water is cloudy due to frequent bouts of nitrogen and phosphorus, air pollution that causes the expansion of algae. The currents are sturdy, even on this good sunny day.


On the seashore on Pamban island, the seaweed gatherers exit solely 12 days each month, amassing every week after the brand new moon and every week earlier than the total moon. This is when the tides are weaker, the waters gentler and extra conducive for seaweed gathering. There’s a spot of 9 days between cycles to permit the seaweed to regenerate.

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On the seashore on Pamban island, the seaweed gatherers exit solely 12 days each month, amassing every week after the brand new moon and every week earlier than the total moon. This is when the tides are weaker, the waters gentler and extra conducive for seaweed gathering. There’s a spot of 9 days between cycles to permit the seaweed to regenerate.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

In synch with the moon and the ocean

Like anybody who depends upon the ocean for a dwelling, the seaweed divers are exquisitely tuned into their pure environment.

On the seashore on Pamban island, they set their very own rhythm, harvesting seaweed solely 12 days each month, their schedule ruled by the lunar cycle. They acquire every week after the brand new moon (roughly mid-month) and every week earlier than the total moon (towards the tip of the month). This is when the tides are weaker, the waters gentler and extra conducive for seaweed gathering. There’s a spot of 9 days between cycles to permit the seaweed to regenerate.


Thangamma carries her sack crammed with seaweed. On a very good day, a seaweed collector can earn about $6 from promoting their items to native factories.

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Thangamma carries her sack crammed with seaweed. On a very good day, a seaweed collector can earn about $6 from promoting their items to native factories.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

Other seaweed gatherers from Chinna Palam who’re youthful and extra ready, have a distinct working fashion.

They do not simply collect seaweed by the coast. As their foremothers did, the ladies acquire seaweed additional out at sea, off the coast of 21 uninhabited islets scattered like gems between Pamban and Sri Lanka. These islands now make up the Gulf of Mannar Marine National Park. The seaweed haul right here is richer, particularly across the coral reefs. They make double the earnings of those that collect seaweed by the coast. Since they have to pool their cash to rent boats for this expedition, they exit to sea solely six instances a 12 months and depart the seaweed that grows round Pamban island for older girls to reap.

Small teams set out round 5 a.m., sharing a motorboat.

Their workday begins a lot earlier than the break of day, says Seeniammal, who’s spreading the seaweed she gathered to dry simply outdoors her house. That morning, she wakened at 3 a.m., made herself tea, ready a meal for her husband and her granddaughter who lives along with her and packed some rice for lunch on the boat.

By 5 a.m., she is accompanied by 4 different girls on a motorboat, operated by a fisherman they know properly. They every chip in about $1 for the trip. It’s a half-hour journey to the closest island. Depending on the provision of seaweed, they might enterprise out to the opposite islands which might be additional away. Once they discover the perfect spot, they moor the boat and dive in. The girls are in neck deep waters normally till 3 p.m., as a result of the sturdy currents would disrupt the work after that. Seeniammal gathered about 22 kilos of seaweed from that single journey, she says, virtually double what girls acquire close to the coast of Pamban.


A seaweed gatherer removes undesirable particles from the dried seaweed earlier than it’s weighed and bought.

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A seaweed gatherer removes undesirable particles from the dried seaweed earlier than it’s weighed and bought.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

They normally make about $6 a day – in comparison with $3 to $4 for the ladies who keep on the island’s coast.

No matter the place the seaweed is collected, the method of promoting it’s the identical. Once the ladies return to their village, the seaweed is rigorously weighed by representatives of native factories. Much haggling happens.


Weighing the seaweed in Chinnapalam village, Pamban island, Tamil Nadu.

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Weighing the seaweed in Chinnapalam village, Pamban island, Tamil Nadu.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

Risks galore: poison fish, dizziness, human attackers, new legal guidelines

Holding on to this conventional means of incomes a dwelling poses many dangers.

Poisonous fish abound within the coral reefs close by.

“A couple of years in the past, a toxic fish sunk its thorns into me,” says Seeniammal. “It hides within the coral reefs, so we will not ever spot it underwater. The ache is so excruciating, you will want you have been lifeless. I used to be rushed to the hospital and handled with an injection, however I used to be weak and disoriented for weeks afterward.”

The stonefish that’s suspected to have stung Seeniammal is a well known venomous reef fish with 13 venomous spikes. Other girls chime in that they have to always be careful for toxic fish and stinging jellyfish.

There are different risks. The girls dive in small teams to allow them to look out for one another. Three months in the past, a 50-year-old seaweed collector from a close-by village was raped and killed on an remoted seashore.

The girls additionally report that they often develop dizzy whereas diving. If there’s any form of accident, the seaweed collectors who journey by boat to their harvest spots should all return so the injured particular person will be handled. That means a lack of earnings, however, says Bakyam, age 40, it is a part of an unstated pact: “We always be careful for one another.”

Then there are the legislative roadblocks. In 1986, the federal government established the Gulf of Mannar Marine National Park. Seaweed extraction within the protected waters of the reserve was declared unlawful, with a jail time period of three years for violators.

S. Mahendran, a Forest Range officer within the close by city of Mandapam who’s aware of the ladies seaweed divers, says there is a purpose these restrictions existed.

“The islands are very fragile, eco-sensitive zones,” he says. “There is a buffer space of six to seven meters round every island to guard the coral reefs there. And any footfall on the island itself might pose a threat to its vegetation, notably its medicinal vegetation and wild grass.”

The girls are allowed to gather seaweed if they do not breach that buffer zone, he says. But for the reason that seaweed grows so near the islands, that is a skinny line and never at all times attainable, the ladies say.

So that restriction does not cease the ladies, says Pandiammal, who’s the top of the native village council. “We inform authorities that it is our proper to take action. We do not know every other option to reside.”

Rocky lives above water too

I interviewed almost 50 seaweed-gathering girls. They had one overriding concern about their lives once they have been out of the water: the boys of their neighborhood. They’re primarily fishermen – and, the ladies say, a lot of them are hooked on alcohol.

“Both women and men wrestle to make a dwelling. But the boys are likely to squander away hard-earned cash on liquor,” Pandiammal says. “It’s made our lives above water as rocky because the seabed we face on a regular basis.”

So fishing earnings earned by the boys is squandered — placing strain on the ladies to dive for extra seaweed to make up for a husband’s misplaced earnings.

“Alcohol habit is a big drawback in these elements and one which authorities are always battling,” says the forest officer Mahendran. “I actually admire the braveness of those girls. They should bear the burden of all of the bills after their husbands, who earn a very good dwelling, have frittered away their cash on drinks.”

Many girls say that the habit grows worse from April 15 to June 15, through the state’s 45-day ban on mechanized boats, utilized by fishermen, so breeding season will not be interrupted. Even the seaweed gatherers keep house in order to not disturb the marine life. The state authorities provides every household about $60 to compensate for the lack of the boys who fish. But a lady’s earnings will not be taken under consideration as a result of a feminine labor drive is essentially invisible in a patriarchal nation like India and a money strapped state government battling a deficit cannot probably afford extra, says Mahendran.


Children in Chinnapalam village, house to girls seaweed divers.

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Children in Chinnapalam village, house to girls seaweed divers.

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Changes for the more severe — and the higher

About 30 years in the past, a plan was hatched to assist the ladies.

In the Nineteen Nineties, the Central Salt and Marine Chemicals Research Institute, part of India’s Council of Scientific and Industrial Research, had the concept that instructing the ladies to farm seaweed can be not solely much less harmful than amassing however extra profitable.

An settlement was solid with for-profit firms to domesticate a non-native species referred to as Kappaphycus alvarezii, present in comparable water within the Philippines.

Hundreds of rafts have been arrange near the coast of Pamban island, laden with seaweed.

However, data from underwater images taken since 2000 and revealed within the journal Current Science in 2008, revealed that the cultivated species has grow to be invasive, smothering coral reefs within the protected reserve.


An effort to offer girls a brand new option to earn earnings concerned cultivating an imported sort of seaweed on rafts. But the species has reportedly grow to be invasive, smothering reefs.

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An effort to offer girls a brand new option to earn earnings concerned cultivating an imported sort of seaweed on rafts. But the species has reportedly grow to be invasive, smothering reefs.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

An intensive open survey is required to ascertain whether or not the species is certainly invasive, says Vaibhav A. Mantri, senior principal scientist at CSIR-Central Salt and Marine Chemicals Research Institute. “There are opposite views on this topic,” he says.

So whereas the jury is out on seaweed cultivation, the military of seaweed collectors have seen modifications for the higher. India’s Recognition of Forest Rights Act of 2006, acknowledges the rights of indigenous communities to utilize pure assets, and seaweed divers at the moment are being issued ID playing cards by the state’s Fisheries Department. One of the goals of this act is to “undo the historic injustice that occurred” to indigenous communities and to “empower them to make use of assets within the method that they have been historically accustomed.”


A seaweed farmer reseeds Kappaphycus alvarezii, a species of seaweed that’s cultivated on rafts.

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A seaweed farmer reseeds Kappaphycus alvarezii, a species of seaweed that’s cultivated on rafts.

Anushree Bhatter for NPR

A hundred girls seaweed divers from Chinna Palam ought to obtain ID playing cards later this month – Indian paperwork is blamed for the delays. That will allow them to gather seaweed anyplace with out concern for the repercussions. All they would wish to do to qualify is to show that they are members of the neighborhood that is been amassing seaweed for generations. It’s a truce of kinds between the indigenous individuals who have liked and lived on these islands for 4 generations — and a authorities’s efforts to safe the marine reserve, says Mahendran.

“For us, it is validation that we do not destroy the islands,” says Pandiammal. “We shield them. If it weren’t for these islands, how might we reside?”

Reporting for this story was supported by the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting.

Kamala Thiagarajan is a contract journalist based mostly in Madurai, Southern India. She stories on world well being, science and growth, and her work has been revealed within the New York Times, The British Medical Journal, BBC, The Guardian and different shops. You can discover her on twitter @kamal_t

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